Sourdough Cardamom Rolls

The tenderness of milk bread plus the warm aroma of cardamom!

If you’ve eaten shokupan (also known as Hokkaido or Japanese milk bread) then you know the lofty, fluffy heights to which soft breads may rise. This feathery light texture is due to a method of breadmaking called Tangzhong, which involves pre-cooking a small amount of flour and water and then adding the gelatinized mixture to a main dough.

Cooking this small portion of the flour makes a world of difference in the texture of the final product. Raw flour starch granules, once heated to 150 degrees Fahrenheit, soften and more readily absorb moisture; the increased moisture retention results in a tender baked good which remains soft for days. Baking science is cool!

These sourdough cardamom rolls utilize the yudane or yukone pre-cooking technique from Japan, which is simply pouring one part boiling water (or milk) over an equal amount of flour to scald it, then stirring well. I based this recipe on one by Maurizio Leo (The Perfect Loaf) which calls for cardamom in the dough, filling, and the simple syrup glaze, all to grand (and delicious) effect. The instructions include an overnight proof, so plan for one day of prep and a morning bake. I hope you enjoy! :)

Equipment:

Kitchen scale, bowls, spatula, stand mixer with whisk attachment and dough hook, rolling pin, 9x9 baking pan

Ingredients:

Yudane (scalded flour)

• 100 grams all-purpose flour

• 100 mL boiling water

Dough

• 400 g all-purpose flour

• 140 g butter at room temperature

• 130 g whole milk, scalded¹

• 130 g eggs

• 25 g granulated sugar

• 1.5 tsp ground cardamom

• 10 g fine salt

• 150 g sourdough starter

Filling

• 30 g unsalted butter, melted

• 90 g brown sugar

• 1 tsp ground cinnamon

• 1/2 tsp cardamom

Cardamom simple syrup

• 100 g granulated sugar

• 45 mL water

• 1 tsp cardamom

Day 1 Instructions:

1. For the yudane: Add 100 grams of all-purpose flour to a small bowl. Boil 100 mL of water and pour it over the flour. Stir until all the dry flour is incorporated, and set the mixture aside to cool.

2. In a large bowl, sift 400 grams of flour with the salt and cardamom. Set aside.

3. Mix the dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, mix the milk, sugar, and eggs until smooth. Add the sourdough starter and mix well. Switch to the dough hook attachment, then add the cooled yudane; mix on low until it is incorporated. Add the flour a little at a time, and mix on speed 1 for about 2 minutes. Increase to speed 2 and mix for 5 minutes or until the dough begins to clump around the hook. Scrape down the bowl a few times throughout the process. Rest the covered dough for 10 minutes.

4. Add the room tempersture butter: With the mixer on speed 1, add the butter one small pat at a time, waiting until each is absorbed before adding more; this may take 5 to 8 minutes. Scrape down the bowl as is necessary.

5. Bulk fermentation: Transfer the smooth, shiny dough to a large bowl, cover with a cloth, and allow to ferment at 75 degrees Fahrenheit for 3 hours. If your oven has a “proof” setting, now is a great time to use it. Perform 3 sets of “stretch and folds” at 30 minute intervals.

6. Chill dough and make filling: Place the risen dough in a covered container in the fridge until it is thoroughly chilled, at least one hour. While the dough is chilling, mix the filling ingredients in a small bowl.

7. Roll out dough and form rolls: Lightly flour a work surface and roll out the refrigerated dough until it forms a 15x15 inch square. Spread the filling evenly across the dough, then roll the dough away from you into a tight log. Cut the log into 9 pieces, transfer them to a 9x9 baking pan, and cover.

8. Overnight cold proof: Place the covered pan into the refrigerator.

Day 2 Instructions:

1. Warm proof: Remove the rolls from the refrigerator 3 hours prior to baking and allow them to proof on the counter.

2. Bake: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Bake rolls on the center rack for 30-35 minutes, during which time you may prepare the simple syrup.

3. Simple syrup: Combine 100 g sugar, 1 tsp cardamom, and 45 mL water in a sauce pan and heat until the sugar dissolves and the mixture boils in shiny bubbles. Remove from the heat and set aside.

4. Glaze: Spread the cardamom syrup on top of the rolls and allow to cool in the pan. Store at room temperature for a few days.

References:

King Arthur Baking Blog Entry on Tangzhong

The Perfect Loaf on How to Make and Use Tangzhong

1. Scalding milk: heating the milk to just below its boiling point (approximately 180 degrees Fahrenheit / 82 degrees Celsius) deactivates an enzyme which inhibits gluten development in dough, enabling the proteins to stretch more and resulting in a better rise. This step is optional.